A five minute walk from Central Station will take you to what looks like a deserted industrial glass building. The interior is a beautiful mix of golds, turquoise and purple greys, with subtle hints of seventies glam and overall exuding a modern elegance. Overlooking the Ij river, the view isn’t too shabby either.
The real gist lies in the food. Wolf Atelier has, since its opening, attracted a wide audience of food lovers. At Wolf Atelier, executive chef Michael Wolf – known for his works at Envy previously – has created a menu that is both stunning and exciting.
We start with fresh oysters and a lovely beer macaron with shrimp tartar, followed by the first starter of mackerel ceviche with lime, jalapeño cream, wakame, samphire, kroepoek and an iced gin & cucumber ball. The crunchiness of the kroepoek, the lightness of the cucumber, the tartness of the lime and mackerel, the sweetness of the creams and the freshness of the cucumber ball are a sensational flavor fest. It was a stunning starter of the night. The Hollandse Nieuwe Dutch herring is a starter that has all the ingredients of a light summer dish. Served with a beetroot three way, yogurt and sorrel, it had a sweet and earthy ease to it. And to steal the show – a steak tartar from the restaurant’s new Tartar-ia menu, with sweet and sour onions, arugula cream and herring roe. I’m slightly biased because I love me a good steak tartar, but this was phenomenal.
Going from the light starters to the more savory dishes – for our main, we are served a foie gras with turnip, apple and pomegranate. The sweet and tart flavors cut through the richness and creaminess of the foie gras beautifully. The flamed seabass with Zeeland mussels, curry and champagne are a delight as well. The waiter asks if there’s any room for dessert. There’s always room for dessert. We have chocolate dessert with a chocolate lava cake, ice cream and crumble (or: heaven to any chocolate lover). As a treat, we are also served a panna cotta of Napoleon lemon candy with frozen yogurt. Such nostalgia that comes from a tiny dish like this.
Somewhat hidden behind the station but nevertheless very present, Wolf Atelier is a gem in Amsterdam’s food scene.